
Why Deadbolt Installation Matters More Than Most People Think
A standard doorknob lock alone provides almost no meaningful security. The latch bolt that retracts when you turn the knob sits only a fraction of an inch into the strike plate, making it vulnerable to a single kick or shimming attack. A properly installed single-cylinder or double-cylinder deadbolt drives a hardened steel bolt at least one inch into the door frame, distributing force across the entire frame rather than a single soft point. The difference in resistance is dramatic — and it is the reason that nearly every insurance company and building security guideline recommends a deadbolt as a minimum standard for any exterior door. In Chicago's older building stock, where doors and frames have shifted over decades of freeze-thaw cycles, correct installation alignment is especially critical. A deadbolt that binds, drags, or does not throw its full inch of bolt travel is only marginally better than no deadbolt at all.
Beyond the bolt itself, the quality of the strike plate and the length of the mounting screws determine whether the lock holds under real force. Our technicians routinely replace the short screws that come with off-the-shelf strike plates with 3-inch screws that anchor directly into the door's structural framing — a step that most DIY installations skip and that makes a measurable difference in kick resistance. We also assess the door frame condition on every visit; if we find a rotted or cracked jamb, we will tell you before we install anything, because a Grade 1 deadbolt in a failing frame still fails.

